History and myths behind the ruins of Assam's Merghar

In the heart of Assam's Chaygaon lies Merghar, a site rich in mythological lore and historical intrigue. Originating in the 18th century, Merghar is entwined with the tale of Chanda Saudagar, a merchant embroiled in a divine conflict, and his family.

Local beliefs, as chronicled by researcher Dipankar Thakuriya, tell the story of Chanda Saudagar's clash with Manasa, the Hindu snake goddess. Chanda's refusal to worship Manasa incited her wrath, resulting in a curse that brought calamity upon his family and community. Manasa vowed to kill Chanda's youngest son, Lakhindar, on his wedding night.

To thwart this curse, Chanda constructed a house devoid of any openings, intending to prevent snake entry. This house, known today as Merghar, was meant to be a sanctuary for Lakhindar and his bride, Beula. However, Manasa manipulated the architect into leaving a small hole, allowing a snake to enter and bite Lakhindar on their wedding night, leading to his death.

Undeterred by her husband's demise, Beula embarked on a perilous journey to save him. She crafted a bamboo raft and navigated through the Kulsi River to the Brahmaputra, reaching Netai Dhuboni Ghat in present-day Dhubri district. Here, with the aid of a washerwoman endowed with magical powers, she traveled to Lord Shiva's abode at Kailash. Beula's pleas moved Shiva, who restored Lakhindar to life.

The historical dimension of Merghar is equally captivating. Thakuriya highlights that the site features sculptural and artistic elements from two distinct dynasties: the Ahom and a tribe likely to be the Rabha or Koch, the primary tribal inhabitants near Merghar. The area itself once fell under the Koch Kingdom's domain.

One notable aspect linking Merghar to the Ahom period is its door-like structure. Thakuriya's research points to the presence of a Shivling in the Garbhagriha, a shrine area typical of Ahom architecture, accessible via descending stairs. Such constructions are also found in Rudreshwar and Chakrahila, reinforcing the Ahom connection.

The site's tribal links are evident in the human figures guarding Merghar's door, which reflect tribal art styles. Thakuriya suggests these figures may represent the Rabha or Koch tribes, underscoring the site's cultural mosaic.

Merghar thus stands as a testament to the confluence of myth and history, embodying the rich heritage of Assam and its enduring narratives.