Shillong held hostage: Endless construction, choking traffic and a scenery lost to chaos

At the cusp of Meghalaya’s picturesque capital - Shillong, lies a critical junction at Rilbong point - where one road veers into the city’s interior, while the other makes its way toward Sohra, the famed hill town celebrated for its cascading waterfalls and shrouded mist.

Yet, at the point where one might expect to encounter the region’s signature tranquility, a different reality plagues the eye. On the way to Sohra, the road lies fractured and dust hangs in the air against the backdrop of hills lined with pine and deodar trees. Around is heavy machinery that seems to have made the area its home. Work in the area has been stalled for months now. 

The Rhino museum at Rilbong point faces a landscape which lies marred by dust, debris, and disruption. The inconvenience has passersby cautiously navigate the stretch, trying not to stumble on what once was a well-maintained path. The clean footpaths have been replaced with cracked pavements, felled branches, and a road gasping for breath. The air, once fresh and invigorating, now tastes of construction debris.

What went wrong? The state government's project, reportedly aimed at easing traffic congestion, began with road-widening plans. But instead of smooth execution, it has turned into a chaos of half-dug trenches. Was the goal to improve accessibility, or to leave people with a sour first impression?

The symbol of progress feels like a work-in-progress that has lost momentum — a storm in a teacup, perhaps, but one that is spilling over and impacting lives. Local taxi drivers agree with the resounding statement. Earlier, the uphill road leading to Jhalupara would begin with local taxis parked waiting for passengers and now, the place has rarely a taxi waiting in sight. One such driver sighed at the mere thought of it, stating, "We have been waiting for the construction to take shape but we keep waiting to this date. The road was deconstructed to make more space but we never see any progress."

And this is not all. The areas surrounding the site: Dhobi Mohalla, Jhalupara, lower Rilbong, Barapathar, and a few Cantonment areas have fallen prey to consistent water woes. A drought-like situation has blanketed the areas. It is pertinent to mention here that most houses in these areas rely on daily water supply - twice a day - with no access to motor facilities or stored water tanks that most houses these days have. Given the situation, a water shortage is most dreaded. 

"It is not even raining well so we cannot collect water. We struggle with most everyday tasks like washing and bathing because there is no water," a resident of Dhobi Mohalla explains. "We also cannot ask other houses to give us water daily...it does not look modest," she added. Another sufferer echoed in unison, "How many times will we ask for water, it is embarrassing. Authorities say that a pipe broke during construction work and that makes us bear the brunt of it," she stated. 

Known to be one of the most connected (in terms of properties) and crowded areas of the city, Jhalupara is also known to be one of the major sufferers when it comes to water scarcity. At every nook and corner, one can witness multiple people together standing with buckets to attain water twice a day which is the usual supply time.   

And it’s not just the tourists who are feeling the impact. Residents, particularly those living in areas like Jhalupara and personnel with their families along the 101 stretch from the Rilbong museum to the high-altitude areas, are bearing the brunt.

Adding to the daily woes of residents and visitors is the long-standing uncertainty over the government’s plans for this stretch. For years, promises of a flyover have hovered in public discourse, only to be followed by announcements of road widening, yet the pleas of citizens have largely fallen on deaf ears. The result is confusion not just for residents, but for commuters, taxi drivers, and even local officials - no one seems to know what will actually happen. "We are just caretakers; we look after the area and ensure all is in order, but this is purely a matter of governance. I have no comment on it," said a local official, who wished to remain anonymous.

"Maloom nahi didi (I don't know). Hum log wait karega (We will wait)," a helpless paan-wala remarked as he continued his day, with dust and traffic snarls looming in the backdrop. Drivers who park their vehicles in the area, residents who navigate these streets daily, and the steady flow of tourists heading toward Sohra and Dawki are all left guessing, with no concrete timelines or clarity.

Nearby, where houses are close together and tall trees catch the soft light of passing clouds, residents’ views are now blocked by tents, makeshift shelters, and untidy huts where construction workers live. Instead of working, many are often seen standing around or wandering aimlessly. The scene is oddly reminiscent of 'The Boy in the Striped Pajamas' and Auschwitz - tall walls, barbed wires, and a broken, dusty site that feels like a world apart, with people roaming as if looking for something to do.

"We will do as the authorities direct us. We are here to work, not to rest," said one construction worker, who wished to remain unnamed. When asked if they knew what the final outcome of the construction would be, he offered a quiet smile and replied, "The road will be broadened," glancing at the others. They all nodded in unison, repeating, "The road will be broadened."

The indecision has worsened the already persistent traffic problems that Shillong faces. A small city with narrow, winding roads, Shillong struggles to manage its vehicular load, and the Rilbong–Sohra stretch has become a major choke point. Cars and two-wheelers block the road, turning what should be a short drive into a long, slow journey. Meanwhile, the steady rise in scooters has only added to the congestion, while the road’s construction zones compromise pedestrian safety, forcing locals to navigate around mud, debris, and open trenches. How long will residents and commuters have to endure this daily chaos?

Another aspect that poses a threat is the environmental toll. Once-picturesque trees lining the route were cut down in anticipation of road expansion. The greenery that once gave the city its charm and offered respite is long gone, leaving behind a scarred landscape that neither residents nor tourists can admire. Despite protests and public concern over the felling of trees, no visible progress has been made on the promised road widening or flyover, leaving the area looking worse than before. Whether the government will ever deliver on its promises remains an open question.

For citizens, the impact is tangible. Water stagnates in potholes during the rains, dust blankets homes during dry spells, and the noise of heavy machinery adds to the stress. For tourists, the first impression is now of chaos; while for residents, the daily grind has become a test of patience, resilience, and endurance.

The charm of Shillong is undeniable, yet without decisive action, careful planning, and transparent communication from the authorities, the city risks leaving both residents and visitors frustrated and disillusioned. What should serve as a scenic gateway to Meghalaya’s natural wonders has instead become a cautionary tale of stalled projects and endless construction. And one can’t help but wonder: Is Shillong’s beauty destined to be sacrificed on the altar of indefinite development?