This Naga lecturer is on a mission to protect tradition

Kohima (Nagaland), September 2, 2018:

“Mekhala” has been an integral attire of women, particularly middle-aged and elderly women, in Nagaland. However, it is gradually facing a declining popularity, especially among young women, in the hill state. Theyie Keditsu, who is a lecturer of Kohima College, is working hard to popularise it. The 37-year-old has taken to Instagram towards achieving her goal.

The following is excerpts from an interview with her.

When and how did you get the idea of promoting mekhala (mekhela in Assamese)?

I got my love of fashion and textiles from my mom. I grew up dreaming that one day I would wear her gorgeous mekhalas and shawls. As soon as I was big enough, that’s what I did. Because they are expensive, I asked my parents to gift them to me for birthdays and Christmas. With age, there were more occasions to wear mekhalas and once I started working, I also had my own money to invest in pieces. When I was working outside Nagaland, wearing mekhalas daily was not convenient as weather was usually hot and commuting across the city could damage or stain my precious textiles. Moving back to Kohima made wearing mekhalas daily possible as the weather year round is cold to pleasant.

It was the reactions of people around me when I started wearing mekhalas to work daily, that prompted me to start this Instagram account. While many expressed appreciation, there were also embarrassed snickers and questions from those who I think perceived this style choice as regressive. Why would I want to wear mekhalas like village or old women when I could wear anything I wanted? A number of older women chided me for wearing mekhalas, telling me I was too young. Basically, I realized that a personal style choice I made to indulge in my love of indigenous textiles was provocative for many. It lead to many conversations with older women, women my age and younger friends and students. I realized that instead of simply talking about my passion and belief that it was possible for women of all ages, shapes and sizes and style inclinations to wear mekhalas regularly, I could show them by documenting my own looks and experiments.

And so I set up @mekhalamama in October 2017. Most women in rural areas, older women and working class women wear mekhalas daily. They don’t need convincing. It is women my age, working educated women and mothers, younger fashion conscious women that I want to engage with and possibly get them to rethink their notions of our indigenous attire.

How are you spreading awareness and what the impact has been like so far?

My Instagram account is my way of spreading awareness - thus far I have over 5000 followers. The response has been fantastic. I would have never imagined the many conversations this account has made possible. I don’t know if I would go to the extent of calling this a movement – yet. But I have connected with so many women via Instagram DM as well as in person who say that that this account has made them rethink their notions of mekhalas and who feel ready to wear them more often. They send me photos etc and its great, cause it’s like a mekhala sisterhood that I am now part of.

Why according to you only a less number of Naga women and girls wear mekhala today?

Wearing mekhala on a daily basis and documenting it on instagram has led to many conversations with colleagues as well as instagram followers. I have learnt about the different ideas & attitudes they had about mekhalas & wearing them.

The main ones being

1. the perception of mekhalas as garments to be worn to church, special occasions or cultural functions. 2. The mekhala as a challenging garment to wear - many expressed that it was uncomfortable, made them feel clumsy etc. 3. That they were expensive. 4. An unspoken but often implied idea that they were dowdy & old fashioned. Of course an elitist bias that associated mekhala wearing with a group/class of women that were generally uneducated & working class or villagers.

The domain for wearing mekhala is shrinking. Where once mekhalas were the only garment women of all ages wore for everything, now they are increasingly confined as garments to be worn in church, special occasions, cultural functions & for performances. So either formal wear or as costume. All that is ok but that means there are fewer reasons for women to buy mekhalas and a need for fewer mekhalas. Naga women are very fashion forward so all the money that could be spent on buying mekhalas - keeping a vital woman centred cultural industry alive, that money is going to spending on global fashion brands. My argument is that one can indulge in one's love for fashion & stay on trend while also wearing a mekhala.

Why do you feel the mekhala needs to be revived? Why is mekhala a symbol of cultural revivalism?

Most mekhalas are woven on the backstrap loom by local women. Weaving is an indigenous industry and a vital cultural institution through which we articulate our identities and tell our stories. That is the important part – to encourage women weavers to continue weaving, to continue creating new designs and motifs.

I am not advocating to a return to the days of old. I try to show that the mekhala can be relevant by incorporating global fashion influences in my looks. This is possible by experimenting with what I wear with my mekhalas, colour/texture choices, accessories and I also play around with wrapping styles and lengths.

Have the Instagram hits translated into young people actually taking to the traditional attire you promote?

Yes. This @mekhalamama account has put me in touch with many young people and women especially. There are many who have written to me saying that inspired by me, they have made a commitment to wear mekhala on Sundays. They send me photos of their outfits.

Do you use other platforms of promotion for young people not so gadget friendly and are not into Instagram?

Nagaland is a small place and Kohima is an intimate community. Everyone knows everybody else. My main target group is Naga women, I would like to encourage Naga women to wear mekhalas more often. So even without Instagram, a lot of women have seen me wearing mekhalas on a daily basis and this has started conversations. Many have expressed appreciation and also feel encourage to start wearing mekhalas more often.

Do you also design or promote creations of local designers?

I don't design or manufacture. I only try to promote local designers, artists & craftspeople. Handmade jewellery is a growing local industry so I try to encourage local designers by using their jewellery to accessorise my outfits. I also try to promote local businesses & events whenever I visit or attend. So you will find that one of my most common hashtags is #supportlocal

Is your Instagram initiative only about mekhala variants or traditional accessories and other apparels too?

Yes, I try to showcase my humble collection of mekhalas as well as the traditional accessories I own.

Do you have plans to make it a business venture?

NO.

Offline, has your fashion statement caught on in the college you teach and in your locality?

It’s not as if Naga women never wear mekhalas. They do. Many wear it to work and church and were wearing it before I started my Instagram account. So it is difficult to say that I am the reason why others are wearing it.