Zohran Mamdani wore Assam Eri silk tie at oath taking. Why is it called Ahimsa silk?

The Assam eri silk tie worn by Democratic Socialist leader Zohran Mamdani at his mayoral inauguration in New York City on January 1 was designed by Kartik Research, a New Delhi-based menswear label founded by designer Kartik Kumra.

Assam’s traditional eri silk received global attention as Mamdani, sworn in as New York City’s mayor at a historic, decommissioned subway station in Manhattan, chose a custom gold-embroidered tie crafted from the fabric, reflecting his Indian heritage. The Khasi name for eri silk, Ryndia, comes from the castor plant (Ryndia) that feeds the silkworms.

Also known as Peace Silk or Ahimsa Silk, eri silk is cruelty-free because the yarn is extracted without killing the silkworms, unlike other types of silk. Though it is not as smooth as mulberry or muga silk, eri has a distinctive wool-like texture and is the only silk whose yarn is spun rather than reeled. The fabric is primarily woven in Assam, along with parts of Nagaland and Meghalaya.

At 34, Mamdani made history as New York City’s first Muslim, South Asian, and Africa-born mayor. The son of Indian-American filmmaker Mira Nair and Ugandan-American academic Mahmood Mamdani, he combined political symbolism with cultural expression through his sartorial choice.

Designer Kartik Kumra, who studied in the United States, has gained international recognition for his menswear label that emphasises Indian craft traditions. Kartik Research collaborates closely with master artisans across India, using hand-spun, hand-embroidered, and naturally dyed fabrics produced in limited quantities. The brand was a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize in 2023 and debuted on the official calendar of Paris Fashion Week Men’s in June 2025, becoming the first Indian label to do so. Its designs have been worn by global celebrities including Kendrick Lamar, Lewis Hamilton, and Paul Mescal.

Mamdani’s wife, artist Rama Duwaji, also made a sartorial statement at the ceremony, combining rented and vintage fashion, including archival Balenciaga from the Albright Fashion Library, bold vintage jewellery, and a custom ensemble from Renaissance Renaissance Fall/Winter 2023 by Palestinian-Lebanese designer Cynthia Merhej, styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson.

The inauguration not only marked a historic political milestone for New York City but also highlighted how traditional craftsmanship and global fashion can intersect on the world stage.