A pilgrimage to Mahakumbh and Ayodhya: Journey to cleanse soul

There’s something profoundly humbling about standing at the confluence of faith, history, and devotion. For me, this journey began with a simple desire to reconnect with my spiritual roots, but it turned into an unforgettable pilgrimage that touched my soul in ways I didn’t anticipate. The Mahakumbh 2025, with its promise of salvation and purification, beckoned me, and Ayodhya, the birthplace of Lord Rama, called out to my wife. Together, we embarked on a journey that was as much about the external voyage as it was about the internal transformation.

I’ve taken dips in the Ganges many times and at the Sangam twice before, but this time was different. The Mahakumbh, occurring after 144 years, was a once-in-a-lifetime event. The sheer mind-boggling scale of it—500 plus million pilgrims, saints, and seekers gathering at the holy confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati—was overwhelming. It wasn’t just a religious gathering; it was a testament to the power of faith, a force so immense it could literally move mountains. I normally avoid crowded places but my wife who is deeply passionate about religious pursuits, was the driving force behind this trip. We had just come back from a month-long visit to the United States to see our son and I was the last person you would think of to go on another back-breaking adventure. 

Despite this, we went ahead. We were in Guwahati, and airfares were skyrocketing. The lowest fares were on February 9th, therefore I promptly booked Prayagraj at Rs 15000/-. The second activity was to reserve a place to stay. I attempted the Railway Guest House, University Guest House, and hotels but everything was unavailable. Finally, after trying several sites and recommendations, I was able to book a room through Airbnb. It was a novel setup, and I was afraid of being duped in a competitive market. I also devised a provisional strategy for returning from Prayagraj to Delhi. Normal trains did not issue even wait-listed tickets. I received two through RedRail in India's fastest train, the Vande Bharat Express at WL 385/6.

Now, the ordeal began:

Day 1: February 9th - Arrival in Prayagraj. We began our journey with a flight from Guwahati to Prayagraj. The night before, we stayed in our Studio Apartment 2 Km near the airport to catch our flight at 6:45 a.m. 
As our plane descended, the pilot gracefully flew over the Sangam, giving us a bird’s-eye view of the sprawling tent city below and the numerous Ghats. It was a surreal sight—a sea of tents, lights, vehicles, paraphernalia and humanity stretching as far as the eye could see. The magnitude of what we were about to experience began to sink in.

Upon arrival, we went to our Airbnb stay house, Abhinandan, though it wasn’t exactly what we had envisioned. But in the spirit of pilgrimage, we embraced the imperfections. the area was very good, but the stay house was not what it looked like in photos. The Manager promised a better clean up. Anyway, it was 10:30 a.m., and check-in was at 12 noon. The Manager kindly let us freshen up before beginning our trek to Sangam. We went out at 11:45 am and drank tea with tasty bun butter at a roadside tea vendor. He instructed us to take an E-Rickshaw to Hanuman Mandir and walk from there. What followed was a 13-kilometre walk through chaotic streets, traffic diversions, and near-stampede scenarios. 

First, we somehow ended up in the Daraganj neighbourhood due to traffic diversions during our trek. We encountered a chaotic scene around Daraganj Railway Station, with a stampede-like situation. There were additional roadblocks and unclear directions, making our journey even more challenging. We had to climb onto the railway station platform to get away from the crowds and some fresh air. A local informed us to cross the railway bridge over the Ganges and descend to reach the Sangam Ghat. Taking this method allowed us to safely reach the ghat. A few days ago, many people died in a stampede at "Mouni Amavasya Snan" owing to erroneous information.

There was a large crowd, facilities, and tent cities in the Sangam area, and we headed to the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati. The flow was humbling and in order. When we finally reached the ghats and took the sacred bath, the chaos melted away, replaced by a profound sense of peace and calm. The waters of the Sangam seemed to wash away not just our sins but also our worries, leaving us feeling lighter and renewed.

Day 2: February 10th. The next day, my wife surprised me with a plan to visit Ayodhya. “We’re so close,” she said, her eyes gleaming with excitement. I hesitated—another long journey after the exhausting day at the Sangam?  My wife informed me that she wanted to travel to Ayodhya to visit 'Ramlala' and had already booked a taxi for Rs. 12000/- which was the roundtrip cost. I was perturbed, but I reasoned with myself that it was advisable to finish this section or else another trip was inevitable. The next morning, we travelled to Ayodhya to visit Ram Mandir. The journey was exhausting and long, taking approximately 22 hours in all.

When we booked the taxi we were supposed to set off on a maximum 10-hour journey but to reduce footfall in Ayodhya, police simply barricaded the highways and rerouted vehicles to smaller, lengthier routes, police were thus road arresting pilgrims. We had "Khichdi" in a village called "Pandit Pura" near Ayodhya. We reached Ayodhya around 6 pm. The fatigue was real, but so was the sense of purpose. When we finally reached Ayodhya and stood before the Ram Mandir, all the tiredness faded away.

There were two different fast-moving queues, the serene atmosphere, and the divine presence of Ram Lala filled us with a sense of fulfilment that words can’t fully capture. Even with the fatigue of travelling, the religious experience at the Ram Janmabhoomi was extremely fulfilling. We visited this place in 2010 when it was in dispute and in shambles. We returned to Prayagraj at 4 am the next day, physically drained but spiritually uplifted. I felt a lot cleaner and lighter, spiritually and mentally.

Day 3: The final day brought its own set of challenges. Our train tickets were waitlisted, and I also Whatsapped SoSes to my railway official acquaintances, MP friends, and Ministerial contacts. The train was scheduled at 4:32 PM, but if the reservation is not done, we will have to rely on unreserved bogies. We checked out around 11 a.m. and ate brunch at Haldiram Bhujiawala nearby. Just as I was beginning to lose hope, at that time, Mr Mukul Lahkar, APS of Union Minister Sarbananda Sonowal, messaged me to confirm our tickets. I wanted to let out a huge Yahoo and sensed a wonderful presence.

It felt like a miracle, a sign that we were meant to complete this journey with blessings. Thanking God fervently, we went to Prayagraj Junction, which was a little circuitous due to barricades. We travelled via walking and E-rickshaw. The junction was well arranged. At the main gate, those who had reserved seats and those who did not were segregated. Reserved seats were also assigned based on time slots, with platform admission allowed half an hour in advance. The return trip on the Vande Bharat Express was smooth, a stark contrast to the chaos we had experienced earlier. As we sped back to Delhi at 130kmph, I couldn’t help but reflect on the entire experience. We arrived in Delhi at around 11:30 pm.

This pilgrimage was more than just a trip; it was a journey of the soul. The logistical challenges, the crowds, and the fatigue were all part of the experience, teaching us patience, resilience, and the importance of letting go. But what stayed with me most was the sense of unity and devotion I witnessed. Millions of people, from all walks of life, coming together in faith, reminded me of the power of collective belief. And then there was my wife, whose unwavering passion and determination made this journey possible. She often jokes that she’s the spiritual one in the relationship, and after this trip, I can’t help but agree.

As I sit here, recounting our adventure, I feel a deep sense of gratitude. I am grateful for the opportunity to witness the Maha Kumbh, to bathe in the holy waters of the Sangam, to stand before Ram Lala in Ayodhya, and to share this experience with the person who means the most to me. It wasn’t just a pilgrimage; it was a reminder of what it means to be human—to seek, to believe, and to find solace in the divine. Despite some practical obstacles, the overall feeling was of 'Moksha' and soulful contentment.

The overwhelming quantity of devotees, along with the VVIP culture, made movement difficult. The entire riverbed was flattened to create parking lots, tent cities, toilet blocks, and so on. Roadblocks and misdirected traffic exacerbated the situation. However, the trek to Sangam and the darshan of Ram Lala made the whole experience worthwhile. Getting rail reservations was crucial to having the return trip go well. Above all, a brief and impromptu spiritual excursion turned mythological, for which my wife Dr Ajanta took responsibility. No loss! I embrace the persistent soul seeking salvation. 65 years of accumulated sin defragged. Amen!