Chowna Mein and the Rebirth of Sangken

When we set out on our Long Loop Road Trip — a ten-day, 1800-kilometer self-driven journey around the Brahmaputra Valley — we expected landscapes, rivers, and a touch of adventure.

What we didn’t expect was to encounter the living force of one man’s vision — a man who has transformed not just a festival, but the cultural identity of a people.

That man is Chowna Mein, Deputy Chief Minister of Arunachal Pradesh, and a proud son of the Tai Khamti community. His work in reviving and reimagining the Sangken Festival and establishing the Golden Pagoda at Namsai stands as a rare example of cultural stewardship in modern India.

We arrived at Ketetong, a Singpho village near Margherita, two days before Sangken began. Monasteries at Ketetong and Imthen were abuzz with activity — bamboo water chutes being assembled, shrine halls cleaned, idols readied for the ceremonial bathing. There was something serene yet electric about it — like the calm before an anticipated celebration.

In the quiet town of Namsai, Sangken is not merely a celebration — it is an affirmation of identity, faith, and continuity. As the festival approaches, the entire landscape transforms. The monasteries begin their preparations weeks in advance, while homes are cleaned, prayer flags go up, and markets brim with ingredients for festive delicacies.

What sets Namsai’s Sangken apart is its scale — it effortlessly retains the intimacy of a village ritual while welcoming hundreds from across Arunachal, Assam, and even Southeast Asia. The grandeur of the Golden Pagoda provides a majestic stage for a celebration that feels both timeless and timely.

By afternoon of April 13, we had crossed into Arunachal and checked into the Golden Pagoda Resort at Namsai, as the full moon rose over the majestic Golden Pagoda. Bathed in golden light against the silver night sky, it was a surreal sight — not just for the architecture, but for what it symbolized.

The community comes alive in unison — monks chant age-old Pali verses as bamboo water chutes are meticulously erected for the ceremonial cleansing, while elders share stories of Sangken from generations past. In recent years, the festival has expanded to include cultural exhibitions, spiritual discourses, and youth performances that showcase the vibrancy of Tai heritage. And yet, at its heart, it remains deeply personal — the gentle pouring of water over a sacred image, the embrace of a wet-shirted stranger, the quiet act of seeking forgiveness for a year gone by.

The rituals of Sangken are steeped in symbolism. Central to the observance is the ritual of Lung Phra — the ceremonial bathing of the Buddha. Sacred images are respectfully moved from temple sanctums to specially prepared bamboo shrines called Kyongfra, where devotees line up with bowls of perfumed water infused with sandalwood, flowers, and basil leaves. Pouring this water is more than a gesture — it is an act of spiritual renewal, a washing away of ill will and a prayer for clarity in the year ahead. The blessed water is later distributed and sprinkled around homes, fields, and even vehicles, believed to bring protection and prosperity.

Another cherished custom is the offering of alms to monks in the early mornings — a practice rooted in Buddhist teachings of merit and compassion. Families rise at dawn to prepare simple yet sacred meals, which are served to the saffron-robed monks in long, quiet processions. Communal meals follow, where traditional Tai dishes like khau lam, kaeng khai, and paasa are lovingly shared. Traditional music — played on instruments like the pi phat and drums — fills the air, as barefoot dances unfold across courtyards and village squares. The final day, known as Poi Sangken, is marked by prayers at temples, family reunions, and a reaffirmation of kinship that binds the community closer each year.

The Golden Pagoda: A Vision Forged in Gold

Built under the patronage of Chowna Mein in 2010, the Golden Pagoda, or Kongmu Kham, is more than a place of worship. It is a statement. Inspired by Thai and Burmese Buddhist architecture, the pagoda has become the spiritual and cultural heart of the Tai Khamti people and a magnet for tourists, pilgrims, and scholars alike.

What began as a community effort to establish a religious center has, under Mein’s leadership, turned into a thriving complex of cultural preservation, education, and tourism. Today, it houses temples, guest houses, meditation centers, and a growing number of cultural exhibitions — blending the spiritual and the secular with effortless grace.

Sangken: A Festival Reimagined

The Sangken Festival, celebrated in mid-April, marks the Tai New Year. Like its Southeast Asian cousins — Thailand’s Songkran, Myanmar’s Thingyan, and Laos’ Pii Mai — it centers on water, symbolizing purification, renewal, and joy.

But here, in Namsai, Sangken has evolved from a small ethnic celebration to one of India’s largest water festivals — thanks entirely to Chowna Mein’s unwavering commitment to his roots.

He has institutionalized the festival without letting it lose its intimacy. Under his guidance, Sangken is now formally inaugurated with community participation, state support, and cultural pride. We watched him lead the opening ritual — not from behind a podium, but in the thick of the crowd, throwing water, laughing with children, and blessing elders.

For three days, the streets of Namsai transformed into joyous rivers — filled with music, dance, laughter, and the spirit of togetherness.

Cultural Roots, Modern Reach

Beyond the fun and festivity, Sangken is a reaffirmation of cultural identity. In a rapidly globalizing world, small communities often face the erosion of language, ritual, and memory. But the Tai Khamtis — and their cousins, the Tai Phakes and Singphos — have defied that trend. And a significant credit goes to Mein’s lifelong mission to root development in cultural continuity.

He has helped ensure that traditional rituals — Lung Phra (bathing Buddha idols), community feasts, alms to monks, and bamboo shrine construction — remain not just symbolic, but lived.

Moreover, with Namsai’s improving infrastructure, accessibility from Dibrugarh airport, and the emergence of hospitality facilities, Sangken is poised to become a major cultural event in India’s festival calendar.

A Personal Journey, A Shared Awakening

Driving through this landscape with my wife — through misty riverbanks, quiet monasteries, and golden temples — I felt this wasn’t just a road trip anymore. It had become a journey through layers of heritage, where the personal met the political and the spiritual met the social.

We crossed the Lohit, Dibang, and Siang rivers — all tributaries of the Brahmaputra — but our hearts remained anchored at Namsai. Not just for its beauty, but for the remarkable story of one man and one festival.

Chowna Mein hasn’t just preserved a culture. He has revived it, reimagined it, and offered it back to the world — vibrant, inclusive, and alive.

And that, perhaps, is the biggest lesson of Sangken — that heritage isn’t what you protect behind glass. It’s what you pour water on, celebrate, and carry forward — bucket by joyful bucket.

By the Banks of the Siang: A Night at Abor Country

From Namsai, our journey took us deeper into the changing landscape of Arunachal Pradesh — a state that has quietly begun to redefine itself. Once considered remote and inaccessible, today’s Arunachal is a canvas of wide highways, smart signage, and cultural pride rising from within. As we drove through Roing and Dambuk, the road seemed to unfurl like a ribbon across hillsides, orange orchards, and bamboo groves. It was a dream stretch — smooth, scenic, and surprisingly quiet, offering generous glimpses of river valleys and cloud-draped forests.

We had initially planned to halt at Dambuk for the night, but a last-minute change of heart nudged us toward Pasighat instead. On a whim, we rang up our new friend, Oken Tayeng, MLA of Mebo, to ask for suggestions. What we didn’t realize was that Oken Tayeng is not just a politician — he’s also the owner of Abor Country Resort, a majestic riverside retreat that turned out to be one of the finest surprises of our journey.

Set against the mighty Siang River, with the hills whispering in the background and the open skies above, Abor Country was more than just a place to sleep — it was a pause in motion, where the soul of Arunachal whispered through every wooden beam and riverside breeze. Built with grace and attention to cultural aesthetics, it was the perfect retreat after a long drive, and a fitting finale to the Arunachal leg of our adventure where we welcomed Bihu, the Assamese new year qiuetly.

Oken Tayeng, the visionary behind Abor Country, is a man of many hats. Before his political journey, he was an acclaimed tour operator and adventure enthusiast, having founded Aborcountry Travels & Expeditions in 2002. His passion for showcasing Arunachal’s pristine beauty led him to establish eco-lodges like the Abor Country River Camp and Yamne Eco Lodge, both emphasizing sustainable tourism. Notably, he also initiated the Siang Rush, an annual tourism promotion event celebrating the Siang River’s grandeur. His contributions have been recognized nationally, earning him accolades like the Best Tour Operator award from Arunachal Tourism in 2017 and 2023 .

As night enveloped the Siang valley, we sat by a bonfire at Abor Country, listening to tales of the river, the land, and its people. The gentle murmur of the Siang, combined with the rustling leaves and distant calls of nocturnal creatures, created a symphony that resonated deep within. It wasn’t just the culmination of our road trip but a profound connection to a land where tradition and modernity coexist harmoniously.

As we left the banks of the Siang and began our return journey, something within us had shifted. The golden spires of Namsai, the joyous chaos of Sangken, and the quiet wilderness of Abor Country had left more than just memories — they had left a calling.

And so, we make this quiet pledge: given another opportunity, we will return — not just to visit, but to circumnavigate the entire breadth of Arunachal Pradesh.

From the forests of Longding to the heights of Shergaon, weaving through Namsai, Pasighat, Daporijo, Ziro, and Seppa, we will follow the majestic curve of the Trans-Arunachal Highway — until we emerge at Bhairabkunda, where Arunachal whispers its last goodbye before flowing into the plains of Assam. The journey is not over — it has only just begun.